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When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble place earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.